wrapping up A Couple of weeKs

Nope, not a typo in today's title (A-C-K); rather, an introduction to this morning's wrap up from our family's favorite island.  In the spirit of the Washingtonian's "Best Of" event this weekend [*shameless plug: Aimee's company is once again producing this special, special event] -- a few week's worths of observations:

Still going strong:
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The pathway to Peter Beaton
  • Just because Peter Beaton's shop moved out of Straight Wharf doesn't mean one of Nantucket's better shops isn't still going strong, especially for women looking for hats + totes for the beach.
  • Right next store (on Federal Street) = Henley + Sloane. A cross between Thomas Pink + Turnbull & Asser, I think every guy between 25 and 55 that went shopping with their girlfriend or wife wound up with either a blue check or pink check shirt (*I bought both).  In fact, at 21 Federal on Thursday night, Aimee and I had a conversation with 4 different couples that all started with a "hey, nice shirt" type intro.
  • Sorry Bean, my new coffee shop of choice = Espresso to Go.  You probably pass this inauspicious little coffee hut on your way out of the airport (they're about .2 miles from the roundabout towards town/Surfside/'Sconset).  Much like I wrote about East Coast Fish Company earlier in the week, mercifully devoid of the Lily Pulitzer crowd.  And from Polpis, easier to get to than finding a parking spot on Center street after 8 AM.
  • Provisions for sandwhiches continues to be my way to go; Aimee again cast her vote for Something Natural.  And a tie-breaker doesn't necessarily work: the latter has Google's CEO living across the street, and Provision's looks out on the Gazeebo and Straight Wharf.  Actually, that seals it for me.  Provision's is this year's winner.  First timers: get the Turkey Terrific.
Disappointments:
  • The Dunes -- overpriced + over-salted, not worth wasting money at this stylish spot on Broad Street.
  • Black Eyed Susan's BELT sandwich.  Usually the best breakfast you can get, substituting an English Muffin for the Portugese roll suprisingly -- and totally -- compromised the quality of the sandwich.  Tucked away on India Street, good thing they still have the best blueberry pancakes and a BYOB policy for dinner.
  • Rope Walk: I wish the food would catch up to the ambiance/bar.  The calamari we ordered had no flavor; in fact, we're still debating if it was actually calamari.  But this Straight Wharf standout continues to attract my family thanks to views like this:
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The food is nothing to write home about, but Rope Walk's bar/view is still top notch


Best slogan (non-Whale's Tale promotional division): Welcome to Nantucket.  Now go back to the Hamptons.
Best bar (food): 21 Federal.  Worth every penny (and you will need to bring every penny... but trust me, well worth it)
Best bar (drinks): Bananicals.  This seasonal, "exclusive" watering hole proudly serves up a range of brews from Cisco Brewery, delicious G+Ts and some of the tastiest Dark + Stormy's around.

Get your fish on

I grew up in New England; consequently, I spent a good deal of time swimming in some pretty cold water.  Like many, I've always been attracted to the sea -- and remember with great fondness deep sea fishing up in New Hampshire with my brother, cousins and family.  It hasn't always been cold water and creatures from the deep I've gone out for.  Take the time that Dad and I went out of Miami looking for marlin -- only to catch monster-sized barracudas.  Now that's one ugly (and toothy) fish.

So with fish on my mind, I've done a little reading about where to go around Nantucket.  A diversity of fish swim in the waters surrounding the island.  From the beach or a boat, blues, striped bass, fluke, sea bass, bonita and albacore can be taken here.  This year, I found the aggressive blues quick to strike the plugs we cast; the bass, far less so (*rest assured, our little brotherhood did practice catch + release... no sense endangering our amazing and fragile natural resources).  If you're interested in fishing these waters, here are a few places you might want to angle your boat towards:

  1. South Shore: by the airport, I always see a small armada of fisherman going after blues mid-day.
  2. The Old Man: packed with blues / a bit further off the Southern Shore.
  3. Great Point: my personal favorite for blues, bass and fluke.
  4. Sankaty Light: inspired one of Cisco brewery's beer, so it has to be good.
We had a great charter arranged through Westmoor so I can't say that I vetted any of the various charter operations here.  But I will give two thumbs up to Corey at Bill Fischer Tacklet Shop; ironically, we have shared connections back in St. Louis.  A great guy, and definitely someone to call if you're not interested in running your own boat.

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Casting for blues out at Great Point

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Passing the fish

Worried about going home empty-handeded? Corey shared the following tip: look for birds, breaking or surfing fish, or simply run your bait in the eastern rips of the island.  Regardless of what you catch, heckuva way to spend a summer's afternoon.

ACK, ACK, ACK

So I'm a bit behind schedule posting to DCSpring21.  My excuse?  I'm on island time (so, this is actually early).  Quite a few great places to share for anyone visiting Nantucket this summer.  If you're in the market to cook your own seafood -- and/or boil your own lobsters -- take a drive over to East Coast Provisions & Seafood Co.  You can find them at 167 Hummock Pond Road, a stone's throw from Cisco Brewery.  Rather have someone cook your meal?  If you find yourself in Madaket, Millie's is the way to go (here's what you should be looking for):

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Breakfast in town?  Black Eyed Susan's is my personal favorite; Fog Island, my sister Suzanne's.  Ready to work off your morning blueberry pancakes or that afternoon home made ice cream that you devoured at the Juice Bar?  If you're without wheels, think about heading straight in to Young's bike shop (*if you're ferrying over, you'll practically walk into the place when you arrive here). Rentals are cheap, bikes are plentiful, and the free map of the island they provide?  Invaluable...

So, with the thought of exercise in mind, it is too bad we're leaving next Saturday morning.  At the same time we'll be flying out of ACK, the Nantucket Conservation Foundation hosts its annual 5K "Race for Open Space."  Starting at the Westmoor Club on Cliff Road, proceeds from the race go to the Foundation’s Land Fund -- which helps preserve and protect the Island’s invaluable open spaces.

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Going on the Whale

Starting later this week?  DCSpring21 goes on the whale in Nantucket for 10 days.  Quite a lot to write about from my favorite summer retreat; rather than rely on out-of-date reviews on Travel + Leisure to somewhat suspicious Trip Adviser and Lonely Planet posts, I'll be sharing some on-the-ground, tried + true family intel for anyone coming to the island this summer.

First up: Friend the Farm.  
If you're spending more than a long weekend here, head over to Bartlett Farms, the island's oldest family-owned farm.  Conveniently located right up the road from Cisco Brewery, I suggest grabbing some super-fresh produce (both the corn + tomatoes look tremendous) & a protein and than head over to the brewery to pick up a growler (or two, or three...) of the Gray Lady.  Fire up the grill, kick back with a fresh beer, and enjoy a cool July evening.  Oh yes, pack a sweater.  While the rest of the east coast bakes in high 90s'/low 100's, night's on "the rock" drop down to the 60s.  A great local way to start your stay.

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